Objectives: You should be able to prepare the vehicle from a parked position from the side of the road. You should be able to make effective observations, applying the mirror-signal-manoeuvre routine. You should be able to move away under control and take up a safe position in the road.

PREPARATION

Clutch down fully and into 1st gear, occasionally 2nd if on a steep downwards hill.

Apply the gas, usually about the thickness of a £1 coin, so the engine begins to rev slightly. If you have a rev counter, use this to help you. Press the gas enough so that it’s just over 1 to 1 and a 1/2 on the rev counter for most cars.

Now bring the clutch up slowly to it’s biting point, this is the point when you will feel a slight tug at the front of the bonnet of your car.

At this point, hold your left foot still and keep you right foot on the gas slightly too.
You have now prepared the car to pull away, the car wants to move off, but you still have your handbrake on locking the two back wheels.

OBSERVE AND MANOEUVRE

Once you have looked over your right shoulder and you are sure it’s safe to move off, you will need to release your handbrake.

Once you have released your handbrake, you will need to gradually increase your gas, whilst gradually bringing the clutch up slowly. It is important that you co-ordinate these two pedals together.

As the car begins to move forwards you will need to pull the steering wheel slightly right to come away from the kerb. Ask your instructor for a focal point when you are driving, so you can position your vehicle a good distance from the kerb. Alternatively, glance in both of your door mirrors and the gap on both sides of your vehicle (kerb and white lines) should appear equal.

Remember to cancel your signal, if it’s still on as other road users might find it misleading.

TIPS

Stalling: This is usually a clutch control issue. Are you in a petrol or diesel car? If petrol you will require enough gas so you can hear the car revving before finding your biting point. If you try to find the biting point first without gas, there is a higher risk you may stall.

The gas should always be set first, however in a diesel it is usually easier and more forgiving to move away if you have forgotten to set the gas.

Just as the car begins to move, pupils often release the clutch up quickly and fully. This could be another reason why you are stalling.

Try this: Just as the car begins to move, ease the clutch up over the course of 3 seconds. So count to 3 in your head. As you gradually bring the clutch up, don’t forget to gradually increase the gas. So you should be co-ordinating the two pedals at the same time.

Objectives: You should be able to identify a safe place to stop, applying the MSPSL routine on the approach. Try to do this with due regard and safety for other road users, finishing parallel and close to the kerb. Once you have stopped, secure the vehicle using the handbrake.

SELECTING A SAFE PLACE TO STOP

There are lots of areas that are unsafe to stop, your instructor will go through these with you throughout your learning to drive experience. Below are a few examples of areas you should avoid:

• Clearway – no stopping (see sign bottom left) of page
• Hazard lines
• Double yellow lines
• Parking within 10 meters of a junction (3 car lengths)
• Parking opposite a junction
• Blocking driveways or pathways
• Parking on bends

MSPSL

Once you have identified a safe place to stop, then you need to apply the Mirrors, Signal, Position, Speed, Look routine.

Mirrors: Interior and left door mirror. What is behind you and beside you. Would a signal benefit ?

Signal: In good time, if it will benefit other road users, be careful of signalling too early – for example, before passing a road on the left.

Position: Your instructor may give you a focal point on  the front of the car to line up with the kerb if needed; this will help you judge the kerb better. Or glance in your left door mirror regularly for updates. You should look like you’re a drain width from the kerb when you glance in the left door mirror.

Speed: Start braking gently, you don’t want to surprise other road users. Just before the engine revs go too low or the engine starts to judder, push your clutch down fully. This will prevent you from stalling. Once your clutch is down fully, then gradually increase the pressure on the brake pedal until the car is about to stop. To avoid any lurching before you stop, come off the brake around 1-2mm usually and then re-apply the brake once car has lost momentum.

After stopping:

Apply your handbrake fully, then select neutral.

Cancel your signal and rest your feet.

TIPS

Be careful of pushing the clutch down too early – this is called coasting. When you come off the gas, the car progressively slows down – this is called engine braking. If you come off the gas and immediately press the clutch down, you’re disconnecting the engine breaking, so the car may start to increase in speed, especially on bends or downhills.

You might be reading this because you have a driving test coming up and it’s a weakness, you could just be starting out or you’ve recently rolled back and thought, ‘I need to learn how to do a hill start properly.’

Whatever your reason is, we’ve got some top tips and advice for you.

How to do a hill start

Let’s assume you’re parked stationary with the handbrake applied.

1. Push the clutch down fully and select first gear.
2. Set the gas between 1,000 and 2,000 revs on your rev counter in your car – 2,000 if the hill is very steep!
3. Bring the clutch up slowly to the biting point. Usually half way up, then hold your left foot still once you feel the front of the car raise. If you can’t feel a tug at the front of the bonnet, you need to bring the clutch up slightly higher.
4. Now you have the biting point, you need to do you 360/6 point check, looking all around you. If you are on the left side of the road, finish the check over your right shoulder and make sure it’s both clear and safe to move away.
5. As you approach your interior and right door mirror (assuming you’re on the left hand side of the road), ask yourself if you need a signal. If there is nobody there, you don’t need to signal.
6. On your right shoulder check, release the handbrake and keep your left foot still until the handbrake has been released.
7. As the handbrake comes off, increase the gas slightly and bring the clutch up while simultaneously pressing the gas down further. If you don’t increase the gas, you’ll need to hold your left foot on the biting point for longer.
8. After 3-4 seconds, your left foot should be raised fully and you might need second gear at this point too. Go up a gear if the engine is sounding noisy.
9. If you have applied a signal, check your mirrors first (usually the interior mirror and right door mirror if moving away from the left), then cancel the signal.
10. If the car judders at any point then you either don’t have enough gas, the clutch is too high or both – clutch is too high and not enough gas.

Tips

If you bring the clutch up too quickly or don’t increase the gas as you bring the clutch up slowly then your chances of stalling will be higher.

Let’s assume you’re in slow moving traffic and your foot is on the brake.

1. Firstly, you can use the handbrake if it helps you find your feet and avoid rolling back.
2. If you stopped for a split second then you will need really quick and precise feet. Check your door mirrors to make sure nothing has come beside you before starting to move again.
3. Assuming your left foot is down, you are in first gear and your right foot is on the brake, you will need to start bringing your clutch towards your biting point.
4. When you feel a very slight tug or just before the tug, come off the brake quickly and set the gas to 1,000-2,000 revs and bring the clutch 1-3mm higher, holding the left foot there – it shouldn’t be fully up yet.
5. If the car doesn’t move forwards and the gas is set then you need to bring the clutch up another 1-3mm.
6. Once you feel it’s either holding its position or moving forwards slightly, you should co-ordinate both the left and right foot together like a see-saw. This means the left foot gradually comes up but the right foot gradually presses down on the gas more.
7. Now you’re moving, recheck your mirrors and increase your speed.
8. Congratulations – you shouldn’t have rolled back!

Clutch control can be difficult to get the hang of for many learners. Whilst some learners master it straight away, for others it can be a real issue as they struggle to not stall the car every time they’re moving off. We want all of our learners to pick it up as quickly as possible which is why our instructors will show you how to learn clutch control easily. Here are some of our top tips on learning clutch control.

What is clutch control?

When you start your driving lessons, mastering clutch control can be tricky. It’s an area that pupils tend to struggle in, so get as much practice as possible. Here we go through some techniques and reminders to help you master clutch control.

How does a car clutch work?

The clutch consists of two friction plates, these plates move apart when the clutch pedal is fully pressed down. By doing this, the engine is disconnected from the wheels. This prevents any of the engine’s power being transmitted to the wheels of the car. Therefore, when the clutch pedal is released, the two plates can then move back together, allowing the engine’s power to transfer to the wheels. This is known as the biting point. As you release the clutch pedal more fully, you will notice that more power will be transmitted from the engine to the wheels because they are moving closer together. Once your foot has completely released the clutch pedal, the two plates will lock so that all of the engine’s power is sent to the wheel.

Use of clutch

As you may well know, correct use of the clutch has a key part to play in operating a vehicle. Below are the things that a clutch can be used for:

• The clutch pedal is used to move from one gear to another whilst driving.
• The clutch is used to control the car when coming to stop to prevent the car from stalling.
• The clutch can be used to stop the car when travelling at slow speeds or carrying out manoeuvres by using a technique called clutch control. This is when the clutch pedal is only half engaged.

Clutch control tips

Now we all know how a clutch pedal works and what it can be used for, we can start to look at some clutch control tips to help perfect your clutch control. Practicing a hill start is a great way of mastering moving off in a car.

1. First, find a road on a fairly steep hill in a quiet area.
2. Press the clutch down and put the car into 1st gear.
3. Slightly press the accelerator and use the clutch to find the biting point. The car will become louder and try to move forwards when the bite has been found.
4. Complete your 360 observations.
5. Release the handbrake.
6. The car will then start to move, so practice dipping the clutch up and down to control the speed of the car (All of the time, keeping the gas steady). Try dipping the clutch up and down in very small movements to keep the cars speed as slow as possible. If the car slows down too much, raise the pedal slightly to increase the speed.

Remember, practice makes perfect!

The disadvantages of poor clutch control is that the clutch could end up burning out quicker, resulting in a replacement having to be purchased. Clutches are not cheap and usually cost over £500 for parts and fitting, so this is something you want to avoid.

Objectives: You should be able to identify a minor road on the left or right. On the approach to the minor road use the MSPSL routine keeping the car under control and do it with due regard and safety for other road users.

Turning Left From a Major to Minor Road

On the approach, LOOK out for signs and road Markings.

Look out for cars exiting and entering, big gaps between buildings and warning triangles letting you know a minor road is on the approach.

MSPSL

M: Check your interior and left door mirror when turning left. Look out for anything following close behind and emerging on your left when you slow down – like cyclists.
S: Make sure you signal in good time, so it benefits other road users. Be careful of signalling before the road you actually want.
P: If you’re driving on quite a wide road, then adjust your position to the left, about 1-2 drain widths from the kerb. If your on a narrow road, then maintain your normal driving position.
S: Brake gradually, until you have reduced your speed to around 10mph. Once your speed is down or before the car judders/engine revs become lower, then select 2nd gear. Try to bring the clutch back up before turning into the new road to avoid coasting. Sometimes the corner may be very tight or you may have to slow down more for vehicles crossing your path – so be prepared to drop down to 1st gear if your speed goes below 5mph.
L: Always look ahead and into the road you are going to turn into in good time. You have priority over vehicles wanting to turn right. Always check to see if other vehicles ahead are slowing down to give way to you turning first- if not, you may need to hold back.

Common Faults:

Turning too late or too early: When turning left, as you approach the corner, use the tax disc in the corner of your car window and keep it on the kerb but not over. When turning right, use your right door mirror- when that looks like it’s in line with the white centre lines in the new road- start turning right.
Steering too slow or crossing hands: Try using a circular dinner plate to practice the pull and push method. Steering from top to bottom. Remember if you are turning right, then your left hand must let go. When you practice, both hands should look like they are mirroring each other.
Wrong gear going into the junction: The MSPSL routine should be done in good time. Once you know the corner your turning into, try touching the gear lever briefly with your hand (do not look down though). By finding out what gear you are in early can then help you determine what gear you want on the approach.

Objectives: The routine is the same for turning left – major to minor. You should use the MSPSL routine for turning right as well.

Turning Right Major to Minor

On approach to the turn, use the same method as you would for a left turn. Below we have explained each step in the MSPSL routine, in order to carry out the perfect right hand turn.

MSPSL

M: Check your interior mirror and your right door mirror before applying your signal. Look out for anything behind you that may be attempting to overtake.

S: Make sure you signal in good time, so it benefits other road users. Be careful of signalling before the road you actually want.

P: Adjust your position so you’re up by the white centre lines but not over. This helps others know that you definitely intend to turn right and if the road is wide enough they can pass you on the left.

S: Reduce your speed to 10mph. If there are no approaching vehicles then select 2nd gear and bring your clutch back up. However, if a vehicle is approaching on the main road, you may need to slow down more. It’s best to try and time your approach, so by the time you get to the right turn, the car has already passed you and you can turn without stopping. If there’s lots of cars coming, it’s not always possible to time your approach – so you will need to stop so the front of your car is in line with the centre lines of the minor road (the road you want to turn into).

L: You need to look ahead and into the minor road before you can turn. It’s important to judge the traffic on the main road correctly. So if you can walk across, then you can drive across – These are guidelines for a 30mph road.

REMEMBER

AVOID: Corner cutting – this means turning too early, meaning that you end up going over the wrong side of the road.

Swan necking: this means turning after the centre lines. If you turn too late you could hit the kerb, or the car behind might not think you’re turning right and then turn before you.

Pedestrians: If a pedestrian is standing around the corner, remember it’s your right of way. However, if they look like they are going to step into the road you will need to be ready to give way. Pedestrians only have priority once they have stepped out into the road.

Cyclists: If you’re in slow moving traffic, just double check your door mirror in case a cyclist is coming up beside you. Avoid overtaking cyclists when approaching a junction.

Steering too slow or crossing hands: Try using a circular dinner plate to practice the pull and push method. Steering from top to bottom. Remember if you are turning right, then your left hand must let go. When you practice, both hands should look like they are mirroring each other.

Wrong gear going into the junction: The MSPSL routine should be done in good time. Once you know the corner you’re turning into, try touching the gear lever briefly with your hand (do not look down though). By finding out what gear you are in early can then help you determine what gear you want on the approach.

Tips:
• Learn the routine MSPSL as quickly as you can.Try to do the MSPSL routine in order, this will contribute to a smoother and safer approach.
• Most pupils slow down too late at the beginning and then the turning is rushed.
• Slow down in good time – this will give you more thinking time.

Objectives: You should be able to identify a junction with a major road ahead using the MSPSL routine on the approach. You should be able to emerge left and right from a minor into a major road, under control and with due regard and safety for other road users.

Emerging at T-Junctions

On the approach look out for the give way lines, cars turning into your road and road signs.

CLOSED AND OPEN T-JUNCTIONS

There are two types of T-Junctions:

Open: This means visibility on the approach is good, you can see up and down the major road fully, so you will be able to make your decision earlier to go or prepare to hold back.

Closed: Also known as ‘Blind’. This means visibility on the approach is usually poor due to houses/tree’s etc… blocking your view until you get closer to the give way line. You will need to approach these a lot slower than the open T-Junctions.

MSPSL

M: Check your interior and left door mirror for turning left! Look out for anything following close behind and emerging on your left when you slow down- like cyclists.

S: Make sure you signal in good time, so it benefits other road users. Be careful of signalling before the road you actually want.

P: (Turning Left) If you’re driving on quite a wide road, then adjust your position to the left, about 1-2 drain widths from the kerb. If you’re on a narrow road, then maintain your normal driving position. If you are turning right, then position yourself beside the white centre lines but not over.

S: Open: Reduce speed down to roughly 10mph, then select 2nd gear and bring the clutch back up if you think you are ready to emerge.

Blind: You will need to reduce your speed gradually, once you are roughly 2 cars away from the give way line, then push the clutch down fully and select 1st gear. If the car begins to judder before you get to 2 cars away, then push the clutch down, continue to brake and again 2 car lengths away, select 1st gear ready to pull away. You may need to use clutch control to move the car forwards slightly to improve your view.

L: The minimum observations required is to look: right, left, right, before you emerge. More observations if necessary though. Think Tennis match observations and you shouldn’t go far wrong. If your view is restricted, then you can also lean forward to increase visibility. Avoid staring, quick head movements – both ways. Look out for pedestrians around the T-Junction, if they step out. You will need to wait behind your give way lines until it is clear. Cyclists are also easily missed, especially when there are lots of obstructions, like parked cars near the junction.

Tips:
• Try to work out early on if you’re approaching an Open or Closed T-Junction.
• Apply the MSPSL routine in good time.
• If you are unsure of what gear you are in, touch the gear lever early.
• If you’re approaching a blind T-Junction try not to force it into 1st gear until your speed is less than 5mph and you’re almost at the give way line.
• You may need to use clutch control to ‘creep’ forwards. If the vehicle moves too fast on the clutch – dip the clutch and brake to slow it down.

Objectives: You should be able to identify uncontrolled and controlled crossroads. Use the MSPSL routine on the approach. You should be able to proceed ahead, to the left and to the right from both major and minor roads, under control and with due regard and safety for other road users.

 The Four Main types of Crossroads

There are four types of crossroads that you may come across. Below, we have listed all four with pictures and descriptions, so you’ll be able to tell the difference while on your driving lesson.

Uncontrolled crossroad

These are the most dangerous. Nobody has priority. You must make eye contact with all approaching road users. If in doubt, hold back.

Controlled crossroad

These will either have a giveway line or occasionally a stop line. It is important to stop and apply your handbrake if necessary before you observe at STOP Junctions. You should be extra careful when emerging out of a STOP junction too, as visibility is usually restricted.

Traffic light controlled crossroad

On the approach look out for the appropriate lane for the direction you want to go. Try to get into that lane as early as possible. If you have to stop at the lights, remember to check your door mirror(s) before moving off. Sometimes motor cyclists and cyclists can catch you up. When you are changing direction, it’s always a good idea to look in all directions first just incase someone has jumped the lights or the lights are not working.

Crossroad with yellow box junction

You shouldn’t enter a box junction unless your exit is clear. Unless you want to turn right but you are prevented from turning right by oncoming traffic. Look ahead early and try to work out if the vehicle in front of you is going to not only clear the box junction but leave enough room for you to go behind without sitting in the box junction.

DEALING WITH CROSSROADS FROM A MAJOR ROAD:

When you are on a major road, ensure you glance right and left for any vehicles pulling out in front of you.

If you have to turn right and another car wants to turn right at the same time, try to follow the offside to offside rule explained below. If the roads are small or narrow then you may have to do the nearside to nearside rule, again this is explained a little bit later.

When it comes to crossing traffic on 30mph roads – remember the rule: If you can walk across – drive across. If you’re unsure about turning right, then take a look at: Turning right from a major to minor road.

DEALING WITH CROSSROADS FROM THE MINOR ROAD:

The routine you should use on the approach is MSPSL again. Everything remains the same as a normal ’emerging at T-Junction’ situation except for the ‘Look’ .

Where to Look at Crossroads: The minimum observations required at any crossroad is right, left, ahead and then right before you pull out. In many instances where visibility may be restricted, you may need to repeat those observations.

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE OFFSIDE AND NEARSIDE RULE:

Offside to offside

This is the safest way of turning right the same time as another road user. If the crossroads are wide enough you can usually pass the other vehicle wanting to turn right and turn behind each other.

Nearside to nearside

This is more dangerous because you are turning before each other. You would usually only do this if you can see down the road you are turning into fully. In the event that you can’t see fully into the minor road, then it’s best to make eye contact with the other road user and try and work out who is going to turn first. If in doubt hold back.

Objectives: You should be able to identify uncontrolled and light-controlled pedestrian crossings and use the MSPSL routine on the approach.
You should know the rules of priority at pedestrian crossings, understand the meaning of road markings, road signs and signals, and give way to pedestrians when necessary.

MSPSL ON THE APPROACH

When you see a pedestrian crossing, your first reaction should be to follow the MSPSL method, as follows:

Mirrors: What’s behind you and how close?

Signal: This is unlikely – see hand signals in highway code for when an arm signal is necessary.

Position: There may be parked cars around the crossing so leave a safe gap, in case someones car door opens etc.

Speed: If you can see the lights have just turned red or pedestrians are approaching a zebra – then try to time your approach so you don’t get there and suddenly have to brake hard. This can scare the pedestrians around the crossing.

Look: look out for pedestrians that have pressed the pelican button on the yellow box – a white wait light should appear. That’s a clue the lights may change. Scan the crossing early to see hazards developing early and to avoid braking hard on the approach. Also make sure you stop just before the stop/give-way line. Stopping over is an offence and can be deemed as a serious fault on the driving test.

KNOW YOUR LIGHTS

Red = Stop

Amber(steady) = STOP , if you can do so safely

Red/Amber = Get ready to go

Flashing Amber = Go if the crossing is clear

Green = Go, if safe to do so.

KNOW YOUR CROSSINGS

Zebra: Black and white lines printed on road. Flashing amber beacons on both sides of road means you can go if the crossing is clear.

Pelican: Stop lines printed on the road indicate where to stop. Avoid stopping over them or on the crossing. These also have a yellow box that the pedestrian presses, so look out on the approach for a white wait light.

Puffin: Same layout as a pelican, except these have sensors on top of the crossing and detect movement. So if someone presses the button and walks off, the lights won’t change and hold up the traffic un-necessarily.

Toucan: Same sequence as pelican. Only difference is cyclists can ride accross. You should usually see a blue cycle route sign near the crossing to help determine it’s a toucan on your approach.

Tips:

Zig Zags: No parking/no overtaking
No straddling: stop before the crossing but not on it.
Pedestrians: If they are still on the crossing allow them to cross, don’t rev your engine.
No Waving: Avoid Waving pedestrians to cross. It’s up to them. Only if they continue to wait and you have acknowledged that they are there by stopping, then you should proceed with caution. Although you think it might be helping them, it could be mis-leading as someone else hasn’t seen you waving and an accident may happen. Also the examiner could mark it as a serious/minor fault depending on the effect it has on others.

On your driving test, the examiner will ask you to pull up on the left and then brief you on the emergency stop. They will say, “Shortly, I will be asking you to do the emergency stop as if a child had run out into the road. When I raise my right hand and say stop, you need to react as quickly as possible, keeping the car under full control. You may see me look over my shoulder, please do not anticipate the stop until I raise my right hand.”

Objectives: You should be able to bring the vehicle to a prompt and controlled stop as if a child had run into the road. You should understand why it is important to react quickly and why it is important not to waste time making a mirror check. You should understand that the vehicle will handle differently under hard braking.

What To Do

No time for mirrors: This increases your thinking time, which increases your overall braking distance. A quick reaction is needed.

Brake firmly and progressively: Harder than normal but do not ‘Slam’ the brake pedal. An indication you have braked firm enough is you should feel a slight forward lurch in your seat.

Clutch down just before you stop: To avoid stalling. Avoid putting the clutch down straight away, as this is coasting and will increase your overall stopping distance.

Keep both hands on the wheel: In a real-life situation, you would brace yourself for impact or try to change direction. When stopped, apply the handbrake.

Before Moving Off

Ensure you look over both blind spots too. If there are any vehicles around you – wait to see if they pass; if not, then apply a signal to let them know you are moving off.
emergency stop image
Skid Control

If the back end of your car goes to the left, then you steer into it. Be careful of over-steering, as you could cause the skid to go in the other direction.

If you brake too firmly in older vehicles (2000 or less usually), you may experience the wheels locking, which means you are skidding. To come out of the skid, you should release the pressure on the brake pedal and then re-apply. Repeat this, so you are pumping the brake repeatedly and quickly.

Anti-Locking Braking System

In some cases, your car may have Anti-Locking Braking System (ABS). This detects when your wheels are about to lock and rapidly pumps the brake for you, which prevents you from skidding and enables you to focus on steering the car better, as you’re not having to multi-task in an emergency.

2-second rule: On 40mph+ roads, pick a landmark like a road sign. Once the car in front passes that sign, count to 2 seconds slowly. If you get there before you finish counting, then that’s an indication you’re following too close.

Slow Reaction

When the examiner raises their right hand and says “STOP”, you are expected to react as quickly as possible. If you’re taking 1-2 seconds more than you should to press the brake pedal, this could result in stopping too late, and ultimately you could fail your test.

Not Stopping Quickly Enough

You MUST press the brake firmly and hard but not stamp on the pedal. As you press the brake pedal, gradually increase the pressure. As an indication, if you have braked firmly enough, the seat belt should lock.

Vehicle Skids Out of Control

When the pedal has been stamped on, the car can skid. If you feel the car skidding, you will need to apply cadence braking. If you have ABS braking (Anti-Locking Braking system), then this will assist you. If the back end of your car slides out, you will need to turn into the skid. This should not happen on your driving test, as the examiner will only ask you to do this on a straight road in good weather conditions.

Taking Your Hands Off The Steering Wheel

Taking your hands off the wheel whilst the car is moving at high speeds will almost certainly result in a fail, and in real life, could be the difference between you staying on the road or not hitting the person on the road. You shouldn’t try to apply the handbrake whilst the car is in motion, and changing gear is unnecessary as you are stopping.

Handbrakes Whilst Still Moving

You should not use the parking brake before the car has stopped. The parking brake (handbrake) locks the two back wheels. if you pull this up whilst moving, the car may go into a skid. Only use the handbrake once stopped.

Poor Observation

It’s vital you look all around after an emergency stop. It’s known as a 360-degree observation or a 6-point check. If there is anyone around you or about to pass you, then make sure you’re not affecting them as you move off. If you haven’t seen them and move off, this will result in a fail if that hazard is near enough to you.

Signalling

You should signal if it would benefit another road user. There may be a car 150 metres away; make sure you put a signal on in case they decide to build up speed. By putting a signal on, you are letting that road user know your intentions.

Objectives: You should be able to identify a roundabout ahead and understand the rules of priority using the MSPSL routine on the approach. You should be able to proceed ahead, to the left and to the right, signalling and positioning correctly on approach to and through the roundabout.

ROAD SIGNS AND MARKINGS

On the approach to a roundabout it is important to look out for road signs and road markings early. It can be very tricky trying to change lanes at short notice, so get into the appropriate lane early.

MIRRORS AND SIGNAL

Hopefully you should know which mirrors and signal you require for turning left and right by now. You will just need to check your interior mirror for going ahead at a roundabout.

POSITION

Get into the lane that you want as early as possible.
Sometimes you will see road markings that say you can use the left hand lane and the middle lane on a 3 lane roundabout to go ahead. Unless you are overtaking, use the lane to the left as possible.

SPEED

As a general rule you should slow your car down to 20-25mph on the approach to a big roundabout. Even if the roundabout is really clear, you wouldn’t want to go any faster as it could effect your position especially going onto the roundabout.
As another general rule if the roundabout is clear you would normally select 3rd gear and if it’s looking busy then slow down a bit more and go into 2nd gear. If you know you will have to stop then you can wait till you get closer to the roundabout and then go into 1st gear.

LOOKING

Remember your danger comes from the right but also ahead. Look out for anyone hugging the roundabout- see 3 o’clock position on the roundabout diagram.
Sometimes vehicles on the roundabout may not be signalling. So be alert, it’s better to slow down a little bit more earlier, get another check in and then make a decision to go or hold back. Try to avoid hesitancy by checking the roundabout regularly for updates and keep looking ahead to position your car. Also check the car in front has left the roundabout before you decide to go.

Lane Discipline on Roundabouts

2 LANE ROUNDABOUT:

If you are turning left or going ahead then you will need to use the left hand lane. Unless road markings/signs tell you otherwise. Use the right hand lane for turning right. Sometimes you can use the right hand lane to overtake and go ahead, you must make sure there are 2 lanes coming off the roundabout though.

3 LANE ROUNDABOUT:

If you are going left, you should use the left hand lane and use the right hand lane for going right. If you are going ahead, you should use the middle lane. Unless road markings tell you otherwise.

ENTERING THE ROUNDABOUT:

It’s important to keep in your lane when you’re on the roundabout too. See the diagram above for examples.

EXITING A ROUNDABOUT:

It is important to let other road users that are on and approaching the roundabout know when you are coming off. So try to apply your signal at the right time. Look at the car in the diagram above going ahead. It is coming off at the 2nd exit, so you should put your signal on just as you have passed the first exit.

Top test tips

The best way to tackle complicated roundabouts is to check your mirrors and come off the gas a bit earlier, this will give you more thinking time. When approaching new and complicated spiral roundabouts for the first time, you want to find out which lane you need to be in early, so look out for roads signs and markings.

You also want to know where your exit off the roundabout is. If you look ahead early enough you can gauge how other vehicles are dealing with the roundabout, which should help a little on the approach and what to do.

Objectives: You should be able to identify a mini roundabout ahead and understand the rules of priority using the MSPSL routine on the approach. You should be able to proceed ahead, to the left and to the right, signalling and positioning correctly on the approach to and through the mini roundabout.

ROAD SIGNS AND MARKINGS

Always look out for the road signs on the approach. As you get closer to the roundabout you should then be looking out for any road markings on the road.

MIRRORS AND SIGNAL

This is the same routine as would be applied to big roundabouts.

POSITION

Make sure you position your vehicle as early as you can and signal early on so other vehicles can judge where you are going. If the mini roundabout is like the one below then keep left if turning left, position your car next to the centre lines but not over if turning right. If you are going ahead, then keep central.

SPEED

As a general rule you will need to slow down to 10-15mph and be in 2nd gear when approaching mini roundabouts in order to control your vehicle safely, especially when turning left and right. As you improve, you will be able to change your speed appropriately, depending on what you can see ahead. Looking out for your potential danger on the mini roundabout early will help you work out how much you need to slow down and then you can choose the appropriate gear to drop down to enable you to pull away again.

LOOKING

It is important to give way to your immediate right. Look at the diagram here and imagine you are in pos A. Your danger would come from Pos B. If you notice the vehicle in Pos B slowing down, then they may be slowing down for their right. Which would be Pos C. If the vehicle in Pos C enters the roundabout first then you could use this as cover, so you could go too. Cover is a term used when a vehicle from your left blocks your danger on your right- which gives you an opportunity to go.

DOUBLE MINI ROUNDABOUTS

Apply the MSPSL Routine on the approach. Try to avoid double roundabouts until you have mastered single mini roundabouts.Double-Mini-Roundabouts

Tips

Going Ahead at a double roundabout: Imagine you are in Pos A on the diagram above. Your danger at the first roundabout would come from Pos D – as Pos C is turning left. As you approach the 2nd mini roundabout you will need to potentially give way at the lines which say ‘Giveway?’ Your danger at the 2nd roundabout would come from Pos E. If you notice Pos E slowing down then they could be giving way to their right which would be Pos F.
Turning Left at both roundabouts: Imagine you are in Pos A again. You would apply the same priorities as last time. A Left signal is required on the approach to the 1st and the 2nd mini roundabout in the diagram below. By putting your left signal on early the vehicles at the 2nd roundabout can work out where you are going earlier. 

Objectives: Recognise the approach to and at the end of a dual carriageway. Be able to join and leave the dual carriageway safely using the MSPSL routine. Understand the importance of lane discipline, clearance from others, driving at the correct speed and overtaking when safe.

Joining a dual carriageway or motorway – what to do

On the approach to joining a dual carriageway, you will have an acceleration lane. It’s important that you adjust your speed (usually by going faster) so you fit in smoothly with the traffic already on the road. Remember, it’s their priority so you shouldn’t force your way onto the dual carriageway or motorway by forcing other vehicles to slow down or change direction for you.

Apply the MSPSL routine early on the approach

Check your interior and right door mirrors as a minimum and apply a signal if it is safe. You may want to wait to put your signal on if someone is passing you on your right side.

Look at the road markings on the approach, if there are no road markings, keep left and increase your speed so you fit in with the current speed of the cars passing you. You should look over your shoulder (blind spot check) before joining the dual carriageway. If nobody is there, then join the dual carriageway gradually.

If a vehicle is beside you, consider coming off the gas and joining behind them. If it’s a slow moving lorry then if it’s possible, consider increasing your speed and go in front of them. Once you have joined the dual carriageway, recheck your mirrors and cancel your signal.

Joining a dual carriageway

Leaving a dual carriageway or motorway – what to do

Firstly, look out for road signs and road markings in good time, so you are not rushing or doing a dangerous manoeuvre to avoid missing your exit.

If you are late seeing signs, don’t do anything dangerous, just to come off at the next exit. Look out for the 1 mile away signs and 0.5 mile away signs which will help you decide when to get in the left hand lane to prepare leaving. Try to avoid overtaking on the approach to leaving a dual carriageway or motorway.

Apply the MSPSL routine to come off

Mirrors: Before the 300-yard marker
Signal: Inline with or just after the 300-yard marker
Position: Keep in the left hand lane
Speed: Don’t slow down too much until you leave the dual carriageway and join the slip road.
Look: Look ahead onto the slip road for hazards/junctions and act accordingly.

Once you have left the dual carriageway, recheck your mirror/s and cancel your signal. Usually there is a junction ahead such as a roundabout, so look our for signs or traffic lights, and start planning your approach to the junction.

On the dual carriageway or motorway – what to do

Fatal accidents usually happen on fast roads. The biggest accident type on UK roads is a rear end shunt. So be sure to keep enough clearance between you and the car in front.

The 2-second rule

Pick a landmark in front of you, like a bridge. If the car in front of you gets to the bridge before you have counted 2 seconds, then you are following too close.

Say to yourself, “only a fool breaks the 2-second rule.” This takes 2 seconds to say.

In the rain, the 2-second rule doubles to 4 seconds and in the ice and snow, the 2-second rule increases up to 10 times (20 seconds).

Lane discipline

It’s obviously important to stay in your lane at all times, unless overtaking. Be aware of other road users – many are doing long journeys and if they’re tired, they may switch off and their vehicle position may drift. Look out for this at all times.

When you are passing high vehicles such as lorries, try to overtake swiftly so you are not in their blind spot for too long. In high winds, the lorries may drift slightly which is another reason why you don’t want to be stuck in their blind spots for too long.

Overtaking

Always keep to the left hand lane, unless you are overtaking. If you decide to overtake a vehicle, make sure you come back over to the left hand lane when possible. By doing this it will reduce overall congestion on the dual carriageways and motorways.

Hard Shoulder

The Hard Shoulder is for emergencies only, unless road signs state you can use it. In the event you have an accident or your car breaks down, try to position your vehicle on the harder shoulder (as far to the left as possible). Always exit the vehicle and face the oncoming traffic, away from your car, so if someone hits your car, you are well out of the way.

Top Test Tips

By taking your driving lessons in Manchester, you will experience dual carriageways on your lessons and often on your driving test. Many learners can still be nervous, so naturally they may end up doing 60mph on a 70mph road. If it’s safe to do so, you will be expected to make progress on your test – that means driving the national speed limits.

Many learners fail their test each for driving too slowly (believe it or not).

From the 4^th June 2018, learner drivers in England, Scotland and Wales will be allowed on the motorway for the first time as long as they are accompanied by a fully qualified driving instructor.

Learner drivers on motorways

While motorways can seem a little daunting, if you are equipped with all of the necessary information, you needn’t be worried about driving on them. We have broken this question down a little, so you can see some of the specific points to remember while driving on a motorway.

We have also included a handy checklist of important things to remember, for both instructors and learners.

For instructors

• The driving instructor must be fully qualified. It is an offence for a trainee driving instructor to conduct a motorway lesson with a provisional licence holder. You must complete all part 3 driving instructor training, pass the part 3 test and hold a green ADI badge.
• The driving instructor must use their judgement and only take the learner on the motorway when they are competent and test ready.
• In a normal lesson, the instructor may pull up on a side road to discuss a driving matter. This should not be done on the hard shoulder, but can be done at a service station car park.
• The instructor must be very sure that their roof sign is safe and secure to withstand the consistent 70mph speed for a long period of time. If unsure, check the manufacturer’s guidelines.
• In high winds or if the instructor’s car is icy, consider taking the roof sign off and displaying only L-plates.
• L-plates should be used on the front and back of the car as a minimum.
• PDIs can provide refreshers training to full licence holders, but not provisional licence holders.
• PDIs are not allowed to provide pass plus training until they are fully qualified.
• If you and your pupil do not live near a motorway, this lesson may be more theory based/Q+A based, covering dual carriageways where possible.
• Double check with your insurance company that your policy allows for learners on the motorway. Especially while this law is new.

For learners

• You can’t go on the motorway with friends or family, even if the car is insured for a provisional licence holder. You are only legally allowed to go on the with a fully qualified driving instructor.
• Trust your driving instructor’s judgement as to when they think you may be ready to go on the motorway.
• It is not essential to go on the motorway to pass your driving test. You will not go on the motorway regardless of your location for the driving test.
• You may be required to do at least a 2-3 hour lesson to cover motorways thoroughly and to allow for travel time to get to the motorway and possible delays on the motorway. 
• By doing a 2-3 hour lesson on the motorway, you should experience some driver fatigue/tiredness while under the guidance of the instructor. If this is the case, your instructor might advise a short break during the lesson.

Motorway driving lessons

Below is a syllabus providing different teaching elements for motorways that should be understood and demonstrated by the learner.

Skill requirements

• Effective observation
• Good anticipation
• Effective use of mirrors
• Continual re-assessment of other vehicles
• Reading the road ahead
• Joining from slip roads, judgement of speed and position of other vehicles
• Following distances
• Safe overtaking
• Courtesy to other road users

Teaching elements to be covered

• Forward planning and observation
• Reaction to other road users
• Lane discipline
• Safe lane changing
• Separation distances
• Reaction to road signs and markings
• Awareness and planning
• Judgement of faster moving traffic
• Vehicle lighting requirements
• Journey planning, use of Service Areas
• How to avoid fatigue, adequate ventilation
• Joining and leaving motorways, using acceleration and deceleration lanes
• Emerging and safe overtaking
• Assessing other traffic
• Understanding Crawler Lanes and slow-moving traffic
• Dealing with LGVs, high sided vehicles, side winds and turbulence
• Driving in adverse weather conditions, high winds, rain, spray, fog, snow/ice
• Smart Motorways, Gantry Signs and lane use
• Understanding Marker Posts and Safety Telephones
• Accident and breakdown procedures
• Dealing with multi-agency incidents
• Dealing with contraflow and other road maintenance
• Safe use of Hard Shoulders
• How to react to Emergency Vehicles and Highways Agency Officers

What is a smart motorway?

Smart motorways are motorways that use traffic management techniques in order to control traffic flow and reduce congestion in particularly busy areas of the UK. You will find Smart motorways around big cities such as London. If you are taking your driving lessons in Hayes for example, you may get chance to go onto the M25  and experience smart motorways.

How do they work?

Sensors are fitted onto the road, as well as cameras fitted on gantries, and are used to monitor the traffic flow and congestion by changing speed restrictions along the motorway.

Operatives in the Regional Control Centre monitor the network to spot any potential problems.

When the traffic is free flowing, no speed restrictions are put in place.

When a smart motorway activates a speed restriction, it will reduce speeds for miles back along the motorway. This ensures that free flowing traffic will not catch up to the problem area. This often causes some drivers to get frustrated as they can’t see any reason for the restriction to be in place.

Once the problem has been resolved, the smart motorway will increase the speeds again and, in theory, you shouldn’t see a problem.

However, some people do not obey the rules. They will accelerate up to the gantry then brake when they get to it, accelerating away from it again. The motorway will detect the heavy braking and acceleration and will reduce the speed restriction even lower, thinking there is a hazard.

The speed cameras on the smart motorway are set to the speed that the sign is showing. When a speed limit is reduced, i.e. from 60mph to 50mph, the camera will not re-calibrate to the lower speed until 60 seconds has passed. This gives you time to gradually reduce your speed and not put yourself, or others, in danger by braking heavily with traffic behind you.

Why close lanes?

Sometimes, lanes on the motorway will be closed. This could happen for any of the following reasons:

• When there is a broken-down vehicle in the lane
• When there are animals or people in the lane
• When there is some other obstruction in the lane
• When the lane is needed for emergency access

Why are speeds restricted?

• To slow you down before you get to stationary traffic or a lane closure
• To keep traffic flowing
• To protect you when bad weather means the national speed limit is no longer safe
• To protect road workers and stranded motorists
• To reduce air pollution

Speeds are restricted to slow you down before you come to a problem. Slower speeds mean you’ll have more time to stop for any hazards, especially during bad weather conditions. Research has shown that many people underestimate their stopping distance in bad weather and speed restrictions overcome this by forcing road users to slow down.

Cars moving at slower speeds produce less air pollution too, improving the air quality in the area. Pollution sensors on smart motorways can also trigger speed restrictions. As well as being bad for the environment, air pollution has also been widely linked with poor health conditions, so it is important to reduce it.

When there is a lot of traffic on the motorway, driving faster can actually decrease the flow of traffic, meaning you can end up going slower. The restricted speeds can keep traffic moving at optimal speeds, keeping traffic flowing freely, stopping people from being held up.

Joining a smart motorway

When you join a smart motorway, you will see the variable speed limit sign on the joining slip road. If the speed limit has been reduced, you will also see a sign telling you that’s the case.

Once you have joined the motorway, the overhead gantries will reflect the current speed limit in force. They will also show other information such as lane closures, what to expect up ahead and any obstructions in the road.

Breaking down on a motorway

Refuge areas are situated on motorways for you to seek refuge in the event of a breakdown or emergency. These are spaced depending on the areas of the motorway carrying the most traffic. For example, on a busy motorway they can be 500m apart whereas on a quiet motorway they can be between 1 and 1.5 miles apart.

What should I do in an emergency?

If you need to stop but cannot make it to the next junction or service station safely, you can stop in the emergency refuge area and use the phone to call the control centre.

DO NOT use the emergency area for non-emergency situations as this creates danger for other road users.

You should stop in the emergency refuge area, switch on your hazard lights and use the emergency phone to contact the control centre, explaining to them what the situation is.

If you are unable to get to a refuge area, stop in the hard shoulder (if there is one) or on the verge and either call from your mobile phone or walk to the nearest emergency area. Wait on the verge behind your vehicle and behind the barrier.

If you are stranded in a live lane, switch on your hazard lights. Stay in the vehicle with your seatbelt on and call 999 from your mobile.

Once you are repaired and ready to continue, use the emergency phone and inform the control centre. They will close the lane behind you so you can re-join the motorway safely. Do not move until the control centre instructs you to.

Objectives

Understand the dangers of overtaking at the wrong time or place. Overtake a moving vehicle safely and with due regard for others. Use the MSPSL routine as often as necessary throughout the manoeuvre.

Overtaking

If you are approaching a vehicle in front of you very quickly without exceeding the speed limit then you may want to consider overtaking.

Try not to wait until you are right behind the vehicle to overtake.

The dangers of getting too close to the vehicle in front is that your stopping distance may not be enough if they suddenly brake. Your view of the road ahead will also decrease the closer you get to the vehicle in front. Large vehicles, like the one in the diagram, will seriously hinder your view of the road ahead if you get too close.

Is it necessary?

• Is the vehicle turning off the road?
• Is there a dual carriageway ahead?

Is it safe?

• Hidden dips, also known as dead ground, can make it unsafe
• Overtaking passing side roads is also unsafe

Is it legal?

Look out for signs and road markings. For example, a “no overtaking” sign.

The routine

Your routine may vary slightly depending if you are on single carriageway roads, multi-carriageways or motorways.

Single roads: mirrors, position, speed, look then the usual MSPSL routine again.

Dual carriageways: MSPSL, unless your view ahead is restricted, then refer to the single road routine above.

Single roads with oncoming traffic potentially approaching

MPSL MSPSL

M: Check your interior mirror and door mirror in good time. If it’s clear and safe behind you, proceed to the next step in the routine. If someone else is overtaking, then consider holding back.

P: It’s important to identify any potential hazards approaching before moving out completely, which is why the routine for overtaking is different. Try to position your vehicle so you are half in, half out behind the lorry (see diagram) keeping a good distance back. Remember the closer you get to the lorry, the more you will have to move to the right, in order to increase your view.

S: Keep your speed up with the vehicle in front but don’t get too close. Consider using a lower gear if you need more power to overtake swiftly.

L: Look ahead and at the vehicle in front of you. Is it safe?

M: Re-check your mirrors. Has anything changed?

S: Apply your right signal so vehicles behind and ahead of you understand what you are doing.

P: Keep a smooth line, gradually out and try not to swerve.

S: Overtake quickly, don’t break the speed limit.

L: Look ahead at the road, rather than the vehicle you are passing. Assess any oncoming cars and complete the overtake if it’s safe. Try not to cut back in too early.

Coming back in after an overtake

Apply the MSPSL routine again. Check the interior and left door mirror in good time. You should be able to see the vehicle you have overtaken in your interior door mirror. If you can’t, then avoid moving over to the left side of the road until you can see it in your interior mirror. Once it’s safe, apply your signal and adjust your position to come back across. Keep your speed up (don’t slow down) and look ahead for hazards etc.

Multi-lane dual carriageways

The routine for multiple lane dual carriageways is Mirrors, Signal, Position, Speed, Look (MSPSL).

Trying to overtake cyclists can be tricky, especially when you are on your driving test. Sometimes we over analyse it on the big day, becoming hesitant or make rash decisions, trying to overtake a cyclist on a bend or opposite a junction.

Whether it’s your big driving test day coming up soon or you just want some tips on how to overtake cyclists, we’ve got the do’s and don’ts covered below.

When you shouldn’t overtake a cyclist

• Always avoid overtaking cyclists on bends, especially where you can’t see what’s around the bend.
• Avoid overtaking a cyclist when approaching a junction such as a T-junction or roundabout.
• Never overtake a cyclist if they look like they are going to change direction, especially crossing your path. Look out for their body language and arm signals.
• Try not to overtake a cyclist unless you can pass them with at least 1 metre between them and you. Think of an open car door length to gauge a metre. Ideally, if possible, leave the width of a car. Always apply the “Less space, less speed” approach. This means if you are passing them at 60-70mph, you need to leave lots of space to allow for gusts of wind, surprise, sudden changes of direction and more.
• Never sound your horn at a cyclist unless it’s an emergency and you need to make them aware of your presence. Sounding the horn may startle them, cause them to over react and swerve in someone else’s or your own direction.
• Never rev your engine as you ass them or suddenly put your foot down.
• Puddles and pot holes – don’t overtake a cyclist if they are approaching puddles or pot holes. They’re likely to steer around them.
• Never pass a cyclist if it means splashing them with a large puddle.
• Avoid overtaking a cyclist when on the brow of a hill or approaching dead ground. 
• If the cyclist looks like they are going to overtake another road user, then hold back and let them perform their overtake first.
• If there are many cyclists riding in a pack, you will need to be mindful of everyone. Look at their body language, are they looking over their shoulders, are they paying attention? If safe, then proceed with the overtake.
• Look at every cyclist on a an individual basis. Do they look like an experienced cyclist? Do they understand the highway code? Often the way they are dressed (no helmet & hire bike) is a clue to their experience and understanding of the rules of the road. In the picture below you can see many of the cyclists don’t look experienced – so these type of road users should be approached with even more caution. 

When you should overtake a cyclist

Only overtake a cyclist if there is plenty of space, it’s safe to do so and the cyclist is doing well below the speed limit for the road.

Tips

• Always apply the MSPSL routine when overtaking cyclists and motorbikes. If you see something in your mirrors approaching from behind, then re-check your mirrors before continuing the routine. Sometimes, you need more than one check in the mirrors to work to work out if a vehicle is going to try and pass you. Once the vehicle passes, restart the routine. In some instances, like if you are going up a hill, you may need to drop down a gear to overtake the cyclist cleanly, clearly and swiftly. If it helps break the routine down to: M,S, P, S,G (gear), Look.
• It’s rarely necessary to put a signal on once you have passed a cyclist. If you have completed changing lanes on a dual carriageway then it would probably be necessary. However, on a single carriageway it probably won’t benefit other road users.

How to change gears in a car

We’ll take you through all of the necessary factors to consider when changing gears while driving. Each section will cover every eventuality, giving you specific information on how to safely change gears in every situation.

WHEN SHOULD I GO UP A GEAR?

The reason why we go up a gear is to go faster. When the vehicle is stationary you need the most powerful gear to move away, which is gear one.

As the vehicle increases speed there comes a point when first gear can’t go any faster, you will be able to tell, because your foot will be to the floor and the engine noise will become louder and louder. The moment it starts to sound loud and like the engine is straining, you should usually go up to the next gear.

OTHER CLUES WHEN TO GO UP A GEAR

• Most modern vehicles have an indicator arrow when to go up a gear, usually green. When this shows, go up to the next gear.
• You can also use your rev counter on your car, (see image above). If you are driving a petrol car, you would usually go up a gear around 4-5,000 revs. If you are driving a diesel car you would normally go up a gear around 3-4,000 revs.
• Listen to the noises of the engine as well, if it’s get louder and louder thats your indication to go up a gear as well.

WHAT SPEED DO I NEED TO ACHIEVE TO GO UP A GEAR?

Unfortunately, every vehicle is different, so there isn’t one given time to go up a gear in every car. Faster cars with large engines will allow you to go faster in each gear. For example a Porsche 911 Carrera will allow you to go up to 30 mph in first gear and up to 50-55mph in second gear. However, a little 1.4 Ford Fiesta is completely different. First gear will allow you up to around 10mph before it sounds noisy and up to 20mph in second gear.

Here’s a basic guideline of when to go up a gear for most 1.o-1.6 litre engine cars.
(Cars like Ford Fiesta, Citreon DS3, Vauxhall Corsa, Pegeout 208, Audi A1)

• First Gear = 0 – 10mph
• Second Gear = 10 – 20mph
• Third Gear = 20 – 35 mph
• Fourth = 35 – 50mph
• Fifth = 45 – 5omph onwards
• Sixth (If available) = Anything above 55 – 6omph

The above guidelines will vary slightly depending on the road surface, weather conditions (ice/snow) and whether it’s up or downhill.

WHEN SHOULD I GO DOWN A GEAR?

This is a little trickier. Firstly you need to understand why we need to go down a gear.

Many learner drivers think you should go down a gear to slow down. The dangers of using the gears to slow down is that the engine will force the car to slow down suddenly without notice. This is called engine braking. The dangers of excessive engine braking is that vehicles  following  you may not realise you are slowing down with the engine, increasing the chances of getting hit from behind. So it’s imperative you use the brake pedal to slow down and only when the engine revs become lower should you go down a gear.

You should only go down a gear once you have slowed down and require a lower gear (which is more powerful) to pull away again.

TIMING THE GEAR CHANGE DOWN

So now you know you have to go down a gear to enable more power to pull away again, lets go through some examples of when you would drop down gear using a 1.4 Ford Fiesta as an example.

Approaching a large roundabout = You would normally be in fifth gear on the approach. You should slow down to approximately 30mph then change gear from fifth to third.

If the roundabout is busy and you slow down to less than 20mph, then drop from fifth gear to second gear. You would normally put your clutch down at 30-35mph then continue to brake to 20mph before putting it into second gear.

Approaching an Open T- Junction/Closed  = Lets say you’re on a 30mph road, you will usually be in 3rd gear on the approach. You should slow down first, before pressing the clutch. Once your speed is down to approx 20mph then push the clutch down, continue to brake to around 10mph, then put it into second gear and bring the clutch back up. You will need to keep checking the junction, if more traffic arrives then you may need to keep the clutch down longer, brake to less than 5mph and then place it into first gear. (usually closed junctions)

CAN I PUT THE CLUTCH DOWN EARLY TO AVOID STALLING?

This is known as Coasting, which is considered dangerous. The vehicle will often take longer to slow down without engine braking (Engine braking – when the clutch is up and your foot is off the gas).

TELL-TALE SIGNS WHEN TO GO DOWN A GEAR

As you continue to brake there comes a point where ultimately you need to put the clutch down and decide to stop or drop down a gear. If you continue to brake with the clutch up, eventually you will stall.

Little clues that your engine is about to stall are the following:

• The engine noises will go from sounding quite loud to quiet.
• The rev counter will lower. If you see the revs approach 2,000 revs or less, then consider putting the clutch down and choosing a lower a gear.
• The last tell-tale sign will be when the car begins to judder, also known as lagging. The moment you feel the car juddering, you will need to put the clutch down immediately and choose a lower gear.

There is a difference between parking your car and stopping your car by the side of the road. Obviously, both have to be done legally and comply with the rules of the Highway Code, however, you will come across instances while driving where it is safe to pull up by the side of the road to collect a passenger or unload something, but it wouldn’t be safe to park your car there over night.

Signs you should look out for

Permit Holders Only

Parking is restricted to permit holders. This can be confusing for many people, particularly those who don’t live in large towns or cities. These are very commonly found in busy cities where parking by the side of the road is limited.

For more information on Permit Holders Only, click here.

Red Route

No stopping during the period indicated. The only vehicles that are allowed to stop on these routes are buses to pick up and drop off passengers.

Urban Clearway

No stopping during the times shown except for as long as necessary to set down or pick up passengers.

For more information about Urban Clearways, click here.

No waiting

This sign essentially means you shouldn’t stop your car to pick up, drop off or unload the car in the area.

To get more information about No Waiting signs, click here.

No stopping

You are not permitted to stop the car in this area.

To find out more about No Stopping (Clearway) signs, click here.

Other things to look out for

• Parking within 10 metres of a junction.
• Where your vehicle will cause an obstruction or danger.
• Parking on a pavement or verge/grass bank. On a driving test, you must not touch the kerb when stopping by the side of the road.
• Blocking someone’s driveway.
• Don’t park opposite someone’s driveway unless they can enter and exit easily.
• Avoid parking on bends or brows of hills where other road users may not be able to see you easily.
• Don’t park or stop in bus stops or too close to school crossings, pedestrian crossings, near roadworks (look out for signs for guidance).
• On a narrow road, single track road or major dual carriageways.
• Slip roads or hard shoulders.

Finding a safe place to stop on your driving test

During your driving test, your driving examiner will ask you to pull up on the left several times. In some instances, the examiner will say, “Please pull up on the left here, just before [a roadside feature such as a lamp post].”

When the examiner asks you to pull up next to a specific roadside place such as a lamp post or behind a parked car, you should do your best to follow what they say.

Don’t worry – they’re not trying to catch you out. They may just want to see you move away safely from behind a parked car (known as an angled start or angled moving off). They may want to see you perform a hill start or see how you cope with moving away safely on a moderately busy road.

In these instances, it’s not uncommon for the examiner to ask you to stop next to a driveway briefly or a dropped kerb.

If the examiner says, “Pull up on the left at a safe place where you would leave your car”, then you should put on your thinking cap and refer to the list mentioned earlier (unsafe areas to park your car).

During your test, the examiner may even ask you to pull up on the right, but this will be counted as a manoeuvre. The examiner will ask you in good time and will say the following, “I would like you to pull up on the right when it is safe to do so.”

Top Tip

Sometimes the examiner will ask you to pull up on the left at a safe place on a road with various junctions opposite.

Some people might say the examiner is trying to catch you out and others will say if you’re good you should be observant and not stop opposite junctions.

Whichever way you look at it, just check the right hand side of the road before applying the MSPSL routine to pull up on the left. If you stop opposite or too close to a junction you will more than likely fail the test.

As drivers, we come across both buses and bus lanes on almost every journey we make, but the law dictating when we can and can’t drive through bus lanes is a topic many of us are less familiar with.

Recent studies show that nearly 4,000 drivers every day receive a fine for driving in a bus lane, but this isn’t necessarily because people deliberately break the law, it’s simply because we are not sure about the rules.

If this is a topic you, like many others, are unsure about, we are going to discuss and answer the question, can you drive in a bus lane?

When Can You Drive In A Bus Lane?

When and where you can drive in a bus lane depends on the signs and road markings surrounding the bus lanes. Rule 141 of the Highway Code explains all regulations regarding this subject.

You will be able to tell when you are approaching a bus stop as there will be white dashed lines which then turn into a solid white line, the solid white line is where the bus will stop. Always look out for signposts at the bus stop, this will tell you if you are permitted to drive through the bus stop and if so, at which times in the day.

White Sign

If there is a white sign, which simply says ‘Bus Stop’, it means it is just advising you that there is a bus stop at that point, there are no legal rules, you can drive here.

Blue Sign

Blue signs will involve symbols of the vehicles that are allowed in the zone, the timings that the bus stop is in operation and days of the week. Each sign will have a different time and days printed on, so always try to slow down enough when approaching to see the times clearly.

For example, if the signs Mon-Fri, 7-10am it means you are not able to drive in the bus lane on weekdays between 7 am and 10 am.

Some bus signs have two times on them, which means that you only drive outside of the times stated.

If there are no times or dates on the blue sign, it means it is always in operation, at no time can you drive on these bus lanes.

One Way Roads

If you are driving on a one-way road, in most areas, the bus lane is on the right-hand side. If this is the case, these lanes are in operation 24 hours a day.

Why Would You Need To Drive In A Bus Lane?

In some cases, you are able to drive in a bus lane during its operating hours, the only exceptions are:

• To allow emergency services such as an ambulance through
• If roadworks are blocking your side of the road
• If the bus lane is next to a junction and you need to turn left to turn, however, you can be fined for changing into a bus lane too early

Penalties

It has become more and more common for councils to fit CCTV around a bus stop and bus lane area, this is their main way to fine drivers. They use the cameras to take footage of all passersby and then pause and take a photo of any cars they notice disobeying the laws. If you are caught driving in a bus lane on camera, you will be given a PCN which is a Penalty Charge Notice; this will be a fine of £90. You have 28 days to pay; if you pay your fine within 14 days of receiving it, it is reduced by 50% meaning you will only have to pay £45. If you fail to pay within the 28 days, your fine will increase to £135.

Appealing

If you believe that you have been unfairly or wrongly fined, you do have the option to appeal. On your Penalty Charge Notice, it will state exactly where the event happened, so go back and check whether it has all of the correct signs. If any of the following are missing, you have the right to appeal:

• ‘Bus Lane’ painted onto the tarmac
• The lane is separated by a white dashed line followed by a solid white line
• A signpost with the days and hours of operation

Tips For When Driving On Or Around A Bus Lane

• Always give way to a bus which is pulling off from a bus stop unless they are in their own single lane
• Look out for pedestrians leaving the bus when passing; they might be in a blind spot
• If the bus lane is out of its operating hours, moving into a bus lane will allow others to overtake you
• Failing to use a bus lane when you could have done on your driving test may result in a minor, or worst case major
• Only overtake a bus stopped at a bus lane if you can see a lot of passengers waiting to get on or off and you have enough time to drive the full length of the bus without causing disruptions

Summary

Hopefully, our article has made things a little clear about when you are permitted and not permitted to drive in a bus lane. Always keep a lookout for signs when approaching a bus lane and make sure you are aware of your surroundings. Many drivers panic when they are faced with having to deal with buses, but as long as you stay calm and remember the basics, there will be no issues.

Learn everything you need to know about the rules of the road by clicking here: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-highway-code.  Don’t forget that if you are an Altrincham Driving School pupil, then you get free unlimited access to Theory Test Pro.